After more than five decades of curating some of the most extraordinary antique and period jewellery in Edinburgh, Joseph Bonnar is retiring. He is leaving behind a remarkable legacy that we will be celebrating in a single-owner collection auction this month. We are proud to present The Joseph Bonnar Collection. This auction offers a unique opportunity for collectors and jewellery lovers to acquire pieces from his extraordinary collection.
From Jenners to Joseph Bonnar Jewellers
Bonnar’s journey started with an unlikely beginning in window dressing at Jenners when he was just 16. He quickly found himself drawn to jewellery when an antiques market opened opposite his flat in 1970. When recalling his involvement with the market, Bonnar told us “I thought this could be my hobby,”. Luckily for the jewellery industry in Edinburgh, what started as a hobby soon became a passion. By 1972, he had become a full-time antique jewellery dealer.
A pivotal moment in his journey came when David Letham, a local antique jeweller, invited him to open a shop on Thistle Street. Letham was working on a project to transform a neglected area in Edinburgh’s New Town into a hub for Scotland’s top dealers. This would be by invitation only. “It was a huge compliment and a great opportunity,” Bonnar remembers.
That hobby quickly became a lifelong profession and Joseph Bonnar Jewellers was born.
By the time he opened the shop on Thistle Street, he had already built a reputation as a dealer with an eye for exceptional pieces. It wasn’t long before his shop became an institution. Attracting collectors, tourists, and even celebrities, all keen to discover the treasures hidden within its walls.
A Collection of Significance
Throughout his career, Bonnar developed a keen sense for acquiring pieces of historical importance and exceptional provenance. One of the highlights of his career was purchasing jewellery from the estate of the 1st Marquess of Dalhousie. Governor-General of India.
From his collection of Art Deco pieces to the famous shoebox of jet linked to Balmoral, his finds often carried with them a story. While it may be easy to be awed by the stunning imperial topaz ring, some sublime diamond earrings, and even an opal and diamond tiara. It is worth looking at some of the quieter pieces to discover their story. The cufflinks celebrating a famous racehorse sent us down a research rabbit hole about the legacy of racehorses in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. While a mourning ring led us to learn about a beloved mother and wife from eighteenth-century Aberdeenshire. It is easy to see why Bonnar’s dedication to preserving and researching provenance made his shop a favourite among those collectors looking for one-of-a-kind items. His commitment to offering the finest and most unique pieces to his loyal customers didn’t go unnoticed.
Acclaim and awards
Over the years, the shop gained acclaim at home and abroad. The publications singing its praises ranged from revered papers such as The Scotsman and the Financial Times to glamorous magazines like Town & Country and Harper’s Bazaar. Acknowledgement from one’s peers is often more meaningful than international acclaim. It is no surprise that Bonnar’s trip to The Dorchester Hotel in the summer of 2003 was one particular recollection he shared with us. It was at The British Antiques and Collectables Awards (BACA) where he was nominated in (and won) the Specialist Dealer, Jewellery category.
Winning such a prestigious award amongst industry experts and fellow dealers solidified his standing as a leading figure in antique jewellery. It was a moment that celebrated his expertise. Also, his dedication to preserving and promoting the beauty and history of the pieces he so carefully curated.
Looking Back on Five Decades
For Joseph Bonnar, his career was always about more than just jewellery. In an interview with The Scotsman, he shared a key element of his approach that undoubtedly contributed to his success. His focus was on making people look and feel amazing, whether they were adorned in the finest gemstones or costume jewellery. This inclusive philosophy—where every piece, regardless of value, had the power to transform the wearer—became a hallmark of his business.
The relationships he built with his clients were equally significant. As he reflects on his career, Bonnar said, “What I will miss most is the people I have met.” This highlighted the deep personal connections that shaped his journey. His shop on Thistle Street wasn’t just a destination for beautiful jewellery; it was a place where friendships blossomed, and where clients, collectors, and fellow enthusiasts became lifelong friends. Stepping into the shop, you were not only captivated by the brilliance of the collection but also by the warmth of the people there. Not just the staff but also the photos of friends and clients adorned in Bonnar’s jewellery which lined the walls of the main showroom.
April Ashley
One of those cherished friends was the actress, model, and activist April Ashley. A true icon, April’s impact extended far beyond the world of fashion. She was a trailblazer in the fight for trans rights in the UK. Her close connection to Joseph Bonnar Jewellers was immortalised in two large photographic portraits that took pride of place above the jewellery showcases, featuring her modelling some of the very pieces now up for auction. One such item, a stunning pearl necklace, can be seen in one of these iconic photos. To learn more about April Ashley’s remarkable life and legacy, we recently spoke to a historian, and you can see the full interview here.
This auction doesn’t just offer jewellery. It offers pieces of history and a glimpse into the lives and relationships that shaped the Joseph Bonnar Jewellers story.
The Joseph Bonnar Collection
Now, as Joseph Bonnar steps into retirement, we are truly honoured to share this final collection with the world. This auction isn’t just about jewellery. It’s about celebrating the incredible legacy of a man whose passion for antique pieces has left a lasting mark on the industry. We hope that The Joseph Bonnar Collection is a fitting tribute to his 50 years of dedication and expertise, offering a rare opportunity to acquire extraordinary pieces rich with historical significance.
We would love to hear your recollections of Joseph Bonnar Jewellers. Whether it’s a memorable piece you’ve purchased or a story about your time in his shop. Please feel free to share your memories with us via email at hello@fellows.co.uk or by calling 0121 212 2131.
We’ll be hosting viewings at both our London and Birmingham offices. Before, the auction takes place on 23rd October 2024 at our Jewellery Quarter saleroom in Birmingham. For those unable to attend in person, the auction will also be available to view and bid on via our website. We look forward to welcoming many friends and clients to these special events as we celebrate the enduring legacy of this incredible career.
This remarkable collection of 476 lots includes everything from antique gems to bespoke creations. All reflecting Bonnar’s impeccable taste and expertise.
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