Swiss watchmaker Omega is the second most popular brand in the horological universe after you know who. They are a manufacturer with an incredibly rich history featuring important connections with ocean exploration, space travel, elite level sport and stars of stage and screen, including a certain Mr Bond.
Without question, each and every watch auction with Fellows will have available a number of Omega watches, ranging from affordable dress watches to the most collectable of vintage sports models like this house-record-breaking Speedmaster reference 2998-1.
September's Luxury Watch Sale was no exception and amongst the Omega section, was an interesting, limited-edition piece worth a closer look - A Speedmaster Reduced AC Milan chronograph wristwatch.
AC Milan Speedmaster watch
As many watch enthusiasts will have noticed over the years, Omega is no stranger to the “Limited Edition” game. In fact, if you were a bit cynical, you might sometimes wonder if the non-limited edition examples of some models are now rarer! Not so with the AC Milan Speedmaster. Until 2022, we had never seen an AC Milan Speedmaster at Fellows. It sold for £2,340.
What does "reduced" mean?
First things first, let's clear up the “Reduced” part of the watch's name. This does not in any way allude to a January sale, everything must go, special-offer price tag. It is in recognition of the reduced case size. It measures 39mm - down from the 42mm of its big brother, the Professional. Available for around 20 years, the Reduced provided a smaller and lower-cost alternative to its manual wind “Moonwatch”. Omega produced a wide array of styles during this period. From solid yellow gold, bi-metal, bracelet and leather straps, to date, moonphase, and even a perpetual calendar.
History of the AC Milan Speedmaster
The AC Milan Speedmaster Reduced is built upon the stainless steel version. Omega released the watch in 1999 on the 100th anniversary of the historic football club from Northern Italy. One of the most loved clubs across the world, AC Milan was actually the creation of two English expats. Alfred Edwards and Herbert Kilpin came up with the idea during a particularly boozy night in the city’s Fiaschetteria Toscana tavern. This, incidentally, explains why the name of the club takes the English translation “Milan” rather than the Italian “Milano”. The team's home colours of red and black have remained unchanged since its inception. They are rumoured to have been chosen to represent their feisty spirit and the opposition's fear of facing them. With 18 FIFA and UEFA trophies under their belt, maybe other clubs are right to be scared!
Features of the AC Milan Speedmaster
The watch itself showcases the classic Speedmaster styling with a black dial and matching tachymeter bezel, with subsidiary recorder dials to three, six and nine. Above the hour counter at six in red text are the centenary years of 1899-1999. The case back is adorned with a football motif and the words 100 Milan 1899-1999, and being limited edition, its unique number is also displayed. In this instance, this watch is no. 1586 of 1999. Inside the case is the Omega calibre 3220 which, unlike Speedmaster Professional models, is automatic. It is essentially an ETA 2892 with a Dubois Depraz chronograph module. Although it is not the most popular engine with watchmakers come service time, it is very good workhorse nonetheless.
Currently fitted to a signed black leather strap, the watch has a smart casual look. But, with the inclusion of both a bracelet and NATO-style strap, it can be dressed up or down depending on the situation.