Every month we are asked by our marketing team to come up with a few watches to include in publicity materials for upcoming auctions. When thinking about what to suggest, it struck me that, despite undoubtedly being immensely popular watches, we have never written about the Chanel J12. Please, hold back the collective groans - the J12 is not just another ‘Designer watch’.
Of course, there will always be a degree of snobbery towards a watch like this. Chanel is not your typical watchmaker with 200 years of history, founded by a refined Swiss gentleman who could view the Alps from their workshop window. Instead, Chanel is a modern brand in the world of watches, producing modern pieces for a modern audience.
The History of Chanel J12
Beginning in the fashion world in the early 20th century, Chanel started producing watches in 1987, debuting with the Première. At the turn of the millennium, Chanel launched the J12.
The J12 embraced the heritage and design cues of leading diver’s watches but challenged and developed upon them in its own unique way. Embracing a sleek, futuristic appearance, the J12 was composed of black ceramic. This material is not only hard-wearing but provides the watch with a certain elegance and stylishness. Ceramic can, sometimes, feel somewhat lightweight or plasticky on the wrist, almost as if you are wearing a toy watch - the J12 has no such issue. The ceramic used in the J12s, produced in-house, has a quality and substantial feeling to it that others can lack.
Chanel shortly followed this release with a white version, too. Both versions of this watch continue to be eminently popular, and I can guarantee that in every sale that features a J12, there will be great interest in the watch. In particular, we will often do multiple one-to-one virtual viewings with bidders specifically interested in the J12. Ultimately, the fanaticism for the watch is there on auction day, too. It is easy to see why; there is an effortless class to the J12. The watch fits with the ‘Quiet Luxury’ that appealed to so many in recent years. It is recognisably a luxury watch, but not too showy in its appearance.
J12 at Auction
What specifically drew me to writing about the J12, is one particular example we had in our Luxury Watch Sale which took place on the 23rd of November. A part of Chanel’s limited edition Joaillerie line, this example manages to fit in with the fine jewellery aesthetic of the range, whilst still being wearable and not too flashy. This J12 has luxury built into every facet - an 18-carat white-gold bezel set with thirty-six rubies, twelve baguette cut diamonds, a ruby in the crown, diamond-dot hour markers, an 18-carat white-gold case back - even the clasp is gold! If this watch were made of another material, it could potentially be too much.
The black ceramic of the case and bracelet contrasts the eye-catching stones and provides the watch with an aesthetic balance and nuance that serves it well. The luxury extends to the watch's internals, with a highly finished movement powering the watch. This example is one of only twelve made, and, coincidentally, is number five. The limited nature of this watch, as well as its eye-catching appearance, definitely made it a popular piece on auction day.
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