Fellows Auctioneers Ltd

Everyone has differing tastes and opinions when it comes to watches. Working in the auction world you tend to see a variety come through the doors. We see all sorts of weird, wonderful, new, vintage, appealing and ugly. From the thousands of watches we have sorted through, I have compressed a short list of 6 brands which I think are either overrated or underrated watches in this wonderfully eclectic industry.

Overrated Watches

Gucci – I’m sure most people look at Gucci as a fashionable version of Marmite. You either love it or hate it. Whatever your perspective, I would not rely on Gucci inputting any desirable calibres into their movements. No matter how many interchangeable bezels come with the watch. This brand's value, in my perspective, is based solely on its namesake and aesthetic. Which is fine if that is what you are looking for.

TAG Heuer – Now I’m not saying that all TAG Heuer watches are overstated. However, when it comes to Formula 1’s… particularly Formula 1 models with references beginning with CAZ and WAZ. This is because they have proven to be massively popular with a slightly higher price tag than expected, with very common and inexpensive movements. When you buy an entry-level luxury watch you expect to open the movement to see great craftsmanship, not mass-produced, imported ETA movements with little to show for the price they demand.

Cartiers – whilst most Cartier watches have cemented themselves as the go-to luxury watch brand amongst Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Sohne and Audemars Piguet, models such as Santos’ and Tanks’ are significantly more popular than others. Some of their vintage models including Must de Cartier examples, particularly ones with quartz movements do appear, at times, to have been simply ‘thrown together’. The details of the watch including the paintwork on the dial and etching onto the case backs can appear amateurish and not what you would expect from a brand that sells £5,000 - £10,000 models regularly. Whilst this is not the case for most of their watches, the few in which this is the case make it a note-worthy flaw in their manufacturing history.

Underrated Watches

Doxa – Doxa is a brand that many who are new to the world of watches have not heard about, they are known for making practical watches. Their slogan ‘Your call to adventure’ is befitting of the watches they create. On the flip side, they also have an array of lovely dress watches, usually dating back to the 1960s and 1970s and usually in 14ct gold. The unusually large cases add to their bold branding style but add a touch of elegance.

Hamilton – Hamiltons are a great watch to consider whether it's to start your collection or simply add to one. Their price points are always reasonable, the timekeeping of their watches is reliable and they have several models to suit any collector's needs whether it’s a Ventura for the more outlandish or a Khaki for the more everyday watch lovers.

Bulova – Bulova have always been a dark horse of the watch world, their Accutron model is likely their most recognisable however they have variations of dress and sports watches alike. Everyone is aware that the Omega Speedmaster ‘Moonwatch’ was worn by astronauts but not everyone is aware that all the instrument clocks on the spacecraft on the same mission were powered by Bulova movements.