Buying at auction provides a great opportunity to step into the world of buying a vintage chronograph watch. These watches can often be a brilliant gateway into yesteryear's more obscure Swiss watchmaking companies that have since folded. Chronographs are incredibly intricate functions in a watch that allows the user to use their watch as a stopwatch. Here are some of our favourite vintage chronograph watches from our auctions.
Universal Geneve Vintage Chronograph
Recently acquired by Breitling, Universal Geneve are the producers of some of the most interesting vintage watches that exist. Particular highlights are the Polerouter and, one of my favourites, the White Shadow. Universal Geneve are known for their prolific use of their micro-rotor movements, which allowed them to produce impressively slim watches. Universal Geneve first started to gain great acclaim with its vintage chronographs. The Compur and Compax watches hold a special place in Universal Geneve’s family, being one of their longest-running model lines. For a time, Universal Geneve produced a line of watches for French fashion house Hermes, using their Paris headquarters as a retail site.
The watch above is a very tidy example of a dressier chronograph from Universal Geneve. It features a calibre 285 movement which was utilised in Universal Geneve’s best watches. This movement rivalled the highest-grade chronograph mechanisms produced by Valjoux and Venus, two leading companies in the space.
ARSA Vintage Chronograph
ARSA is probably not a name that many have heard of. Founded in 1898 by Auguste Reymond, the company quickly grew into a respectable brand. In 1926, they acquired the Unitas company, which produced movements for several other Swiss watchmakers. Unitas later became a part of Ebauche SA., otherwise known as ESA, which later morphed into ETA. The brand struggled through the quartz crisis and has traded ownership several times since. It continues today as ‘Auguste Reymond’, producing a good collection of mid-level watches.
This watch is a pleasant one, the Tuxedo dial being the standout feature. An outer tachymeter forms the circumference, giving the dial an aesthetically pleasing utilitarian look. As with most watches of this age, it has seen some intervention. The minute hand, for instance, has been replaced. But that is, typically, what makes this type of watch such a great introduction to this market; it’s not perfect but it is great.
Sandoz Vintage Chronograph
Sandoz as a brand can date itself back to the late 19th century. Founded by Henri Sandoz, the company had a close relationship with Cyma which allowed both companies to develop together. The brand has since been licensed out to a number of different companies, all of which produce watches of varying quality. It is the Swiss company that produces the highest quality watches under this name.
The final choice is a bit more modern than the previous two. The styling for the watch is very of its time, with a very strong space-race feeling to it. The ‘surfboard’ motif on the dial is always pleasing to see and only contributes to that late 1960s, early 1970s appeal. Inside the case sits a Valjoux 7733 movement. This was the predecessor to the 7750 which has been used by a great number of different watchmakers, Omega, Breitling and IWC just to name a few.
Watches & Watch Accessories | Thursday 25th July
Viewing times (ID required):
Birmingham
Wednesday 24th July 10:00-16:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Newsletter Signup
Newsletter
