Grossé was founded in the early 20th century by Heinrich Henkel and Florentin Grosse. They originally specialised in hair work but expanded into costume jewellery after the end of the First World War. The firm changed its name to Henkel & Grosse and enjoyed success with new, exciting materials such as Bakelite and aluminium.
Through twinning these materials with modern methods and designs, the firm shortly attracted the attention of some big names in the fashion world. Soon the company had contracts with Harrods in London and Saks in New York. Designers such as Jeanne Lanvin and Elsa Schiaparelli started working with the company in Paris. This led them to open an office in Paris. The expansion to Paris proved a good move as they subsequently received a prestige award at the Paris World Fair in 1937. Their jewellery was bought and worn by stars of the silver screen such as Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich. At this time it was reported that the latter bought out the entire stock in New York in one go.
Another World War led to further changes at the firm. Henceforth, Henkel and Grosse became Grossé and continued to expand. During the 1950s Grossé was stocked in Christian Dior’s boutiques. It was so popular that in 1955 Grossé signed a contract with Dior to manufacture costume jewellery under the Dior name.
Grossé Costume Jewellery at Auction
In the October Designer Jewellery, Watches & Sunglasses auction there are a number of lots by Grossé and Dior. From 1955 Grossé simultaneously manufactured its own jewellery alongside jewellery for Dior. This makes vintage Grossé jewellery just as exciting as well as collectable for costume jewellery collectors, as vintage Dior.
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