Hermès Kelly: Past and Present

The Hermès Kelly bag, a staple for the iconic Hermès brand for almost a century, retains its long-standing reputation as a must-have bag for the fashion-conscious.

History of the Hermès Kelly

The Kelly design is an evolution of Hermès’ first bag, the Haut à Courroies. Originally designed to carry the saddles Hermès were known for, this bag has become the template for many of the house’s iconic designs but would now be recognised as the Birkin HAC. This original bag, the Kelly was named after the actress and princess Grace Kelly who had used a Sac à Dépêches to cover her pregnancy from the press.

Many famous names were seen wearing the Sac à Depêches from the 1930s onwards. However, its popularity can be largely accredited to its appearance on the arm of a superstar from Hollywood's golden era - actress Grace Kelly.

Grace Kelly

Kelly starred in the 1955 Alfred Hitchcock-directed film, ‘To Catch a Thief’. She wore the Hermès bag as part of her on-screen wardrobe; she then adopted it into her off-screen style. Most notably, Grace Kelly would carry the bag to shield herself during her first pregnancy. A photograph of her in this act became the cover image of Life magazine in 1956. This prompted the nicknaming of the Sac à Depêches the "Kelly" bag. 

Due to the prevailing association of the designer piece with the actress who popularised it, Hermès renamed the Sac à Depêches to the Kelly in 1977.

The Kelly bag remains iconic today. Grace Kelly’s original Kelly bag was the centrepiece of the 2010 exhibition ‘Grace Kelly: Style Icon’, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

The Style of the Kelly Bag

All Kellys are trapeze-shaped, structured bags with a top handle and detachable shoulder strap. They come in varying sizes from 15 to 50 (the size is the measurement of the length of the bag, at the base, in centimetres).

The Kelly design has lent its iconic style to a whole collection of items. From leather goods such as wallets and belts to rings.

The bag remains undeniably iconic, no matter which size you pick, it’s immediately recognisable as a Kelly. The choices for the Hermès admirer are the type of leather, style of stitching, size, colour and hardware.

A newer addition to the Kelly family is the Kelly Pochette. Part of John Paul Gaultier’s first collection for Hermès in 2004, it is known as the original Mini Kelly. Envisioned as a compact iteration of the Kelly bag, this petite piece exudes timeless elegance with its compact yet functional design. Since its launch in the early 2000s, it has been a highly sought-after piece for collectors but was not classed as a quota bag until recently. 

In line with the rest of the Kelly range, the Pochette includes the same features such as the straps and turn lock closure. Unlike the Mini Kelly, the Pochette cannot be converted into a shoulder bag, it is a clutch. However, it can (importantly) fit most standard-size mobile phones, something you might struggle with in a Mini Kelly 20. The top handle has some flexibility so you can hold it by the handle or put your hand through as a typical clutch.  

This new imagining of a familiar style allows Hermès to increase its range while staying true to the stylistic legacy of the brand.  

Magic in the Details: Stitching and Leather

The style of stitching is denoted by Sellier or Retourne. Sellier translates to saddle and refers to the style being the most like the original. The Sellier has a rigid structure, with defined corners and visible stitching.  Retourne, in this instance, translates to turn out. The artisans start off in the same way as the Sellier but then turn the bag inside out. This gives a Retourne softer corners and piping rather than stitching.

Some leathers suit certain styles better than others. Clemence is very soft and slightly heavier than the more commonly used Togo. This means that the leather can soften and stretch with age, giving it a slouchier and more casual appearance, which works well with the style of the Retourne.

Whereas Chèvre is very lightweight and suits the more structured style of the Sellier. Kellys made from Chèvre are very popular and can be considered exotic skin. The rise in popularity is mostly due to the fashion for the mini Kellys being created in Chèvre. Due to its heavily textured grain, it is a leather that is more forgiving of scratches and marks.

Due to the bag's fine craft process and popularity, the Kelly bag is a highly exclusive purchase. It takes many years for loyal Hermès customers to have the opportunity to purchase one of these bags.

One way for a savvy shopper to avoid this wait is to shop at auction.

Hermès Kelly Bags at Auction